DIY Cleaning Recipe Builder.

Pick what you are making and it works out real quantities from ordinary ingredients — with the cost per use, the method, and an honest comparison of the three approaches.

What are you making?

Water hardness and machine type change the quantities, not just the wording. Everything you tell it below is used.

A main-wash detergent. Water hardness and machine type both change the dose, and both changes are arithmetic rather than opinion.

How many loads to mix at once.

An agitator machine that fills the drum. Roughly 50–60 L in the main wash.

Water hardness

61–120 mg/L. Faint kettle scale, occasional spotting on glassware.

Household

Leaves out anything that suppresses the bacteria a septic tank depends on.

Leaves out every added scent. Nothing is lost from the cleaning.

Leaves out borates and concentrated fragrance oils, which are the two ingestion risks in these recipes.

Leaves out essential oils and borates. Cats cannot clear the phenols and terpenes in essential oils.

Anything else you were going to add?

The dangerous mixtures in real kitchens are usually not the recipe — they are what somebody adds to it. Tick anything you had in mind and it is checked against the recipe before the recipe is shown.

The most commonly added product of all, and one half of most of the fatal pairs.

Added for grease and for streak-free glass.

Added for scale, for smell, and for "extra cleaning power".

Added for scale and for scent.

Added for scale and rust that a weak acid will not shift.

Added for whitening and for surface disinfection.

Added for whitening and stain lift.

Added for faster drying and for disinfection.

Added on top of a cleaner in the belief that it makes it disinfect.

Added to a slow drain that a cleaner has already been poured into.

Added for scent, and sometimes on the belief that it disinfects.

Added for organic soil and odours.

Added as a general-purpose surfactant when nothing else is to hand.

Added as a plant-based surfactant.

Added for abrasion and for deodorising.

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The standard approach, using widely available products.

Conventional

About $0.39 per load

A builder-and-surfactant powder: sodium carbonate for alkalinity and hardness, borate for buffering, and a nonionic surfactant to do the cleaning.

What you need

  • Sodium carbonate

    also sold as washing soda, soda ash

    1120 g (2.47 lb · about 4.98 cups)

    Alkaline builder. Raises wash pH and takes the hardness out of the water so the surfactant is not wasted on it.

    Sold as

    • Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda
    • Dri-Pak Soda Crystals
    • generic soda ash

    Examples only, in alphabetical order — not a ranking and not a recommendation. Store brands carrying the same active ingredient are chemically identical.

    Reading the label

    The ingredient panel must read sodium carbonate. Baking soda is sodium BIcarbonate and is a much weaker alkali — the two are not interchangeable. Pool-supply "pH increaser" is the same chemical, usually cheaper by weight.

  • Sodium tetraborate

    also sold as borax

    480 g (1.06 lb · about 2.39 cups)

    Buffers the wash so pH does not collapse as soil loads up.

    Sold as

    • 20 Mule Team Borax

    Listed as an example, not a recommendation. This class is commonly distributed under a single name — that is a fact of the market, not a preference.

    Reading the label

    Look for sodium tetraborate decahydrate on the panel. In the EU and UK the product on the shelf labelled "borax substitute" is sodium sesquicarbonate — a different chemical that buffers but does not condition water the same way.

  • Nonionic surfactant

    also sold as alkyl polyglucoside or alcohol ethoxylate

    320 ml (1.35 cups)

    The cleaning agent. Everything else in the powder exists to let this work. In a high-efficiency drum this has to be the low-foaming grade.

    Reading the label

    This class is bought by its chemistry, not by a brand. On a label it reads as "nonionic surfactants", "alcohol ethoxylate", "alkyl polyglucoside", or "coco-", "decyl-" or "lauryl glucoside". Two practical sources: raw surfactant from a soap-making supplier, or an unscented, dye-free liquid laundry detergent used as the surfactant component. For a high-efficiency drum the label must say low-foaming or HE.

Method

  1. Weigh the powders into a dry tub and stir until the colour is even. A kitchen scale is worth more here than any measuring spoon.
  2. Add the surfactant a few millilitres at a time, stirring after each addition, until it is a free-flowing damp powder rather than a paste.
  3. Dose straight into the drum, not the dispenser drawer. Homemade powder cakes in a drawer and never reaches the wash.
  4. Wash at 40 °C (105 °F) or above where the fabric allows. Below about 30 °C the alkalinity does far less work.
  5. Label the container with what is in it and the date you mixed it. An unlabelled bottle is how the dangerous mixes get made.
Dose for one loadThe list above makes 32 loads. This is what to take back out of it each time.
IngredientPer load
Sodium carbonate35 g
Sodium tetraborate15 g
Nonionic surfactant10 ml

On this surface

  • Not for wool, silk, cashmere or anything else made of protein fibre: alkali above about pH 9 permanently damages them. Fine on cotton, linen and ordinary synthetics.

What your answers changed

  • The carbonate dose already carries the hardness correction, so performance holds up as the water gets harder.
  • Dosed for a standard top-loader. An agitator machine that fills the drum. Roughly 50–60 L in the main wash.

Before you mix

  • Keep it out of reach and out of unlabelled containers. Alkaline powder looks exactly like several things that are safe to eat.

Quantities are for 32 loads. Measure powders by weight where you can — a scale is exact and a spoon is not.

Read this before you mix.

Do not combine ingredients from different columns. Each option below is safe used on its own.

This combination is usable, but it carries a documented hazard. The detail below comes from the cited public health source, not from Otesse.

Conventional, natural and heavy-duty, side by sideAll three are shown at once, including where one is genuinely worse. Nothing here is ranked or recommended — read the rows and decide which trade you want to make.
Compared onConventionalNaturalHeavy-duty
EffectivenessEffectiveness: StrongEffectiveness: WeakSource noted in the assumptions below.Effectiveness: StrongSource noted in the assumptions below.
Costabout $0.39 per loadSource noted in the assumptions below.about $0.67 per loadSource noted in the assumptions below.about $0.67 per loadSource noted in the assumptions below.
Active time~4 min active~2 min active~5 min active
Safety notesAlkaline powder. Irritates eyes and skin — gloves, and keep the dust down.Low hazard. Sapindus saponins can irritate eyes; keep the bag out of reach.Oxidiser and strong alkali. Gloves and eye protection; never store it damp.
Surface riskCautionSource noted in the assumptions below.SafeCautionSource noted in the assumptions below.
AvailabilitySpecialtySpecialtySpecialty
Septic safeConditionalYesYesSource noted in the assumptions below.

Cells marked with a dagger carry a source note, listed under “How this is worked out” below.