TL;DR
Skateboard bearings slow down because grit and old lube turn into paste inside the races, not because the wheels are dirty. Pop the shields off, soak the bearings in a proper cleaning solvent, dry them completely, then add one or two drops of bearing oil and put them back. The whole job takes about half an hour.
Why bearings slow down
Each wheel rides on two sealed bearings. Inside each one, steel balls run in a track packed with grease or oil, held apart by a small cage.
Ride through dust, sand, wet pavement, or a skatepark floor, and fine grit works past the shields. It mixes with the lubricant and turns it into a grinding paste. The balls stop rolling smoothly and start dragging.
Water is worse than dust. A puddle or a rainy session drives moisture inside, and the races rust from within. A rusted bearing makes a dry rattling sound and never comes back all the way.
How do you clean skateboard bearings?
Remove the wheels, pry the bearings off the axles, and carefully pop off the shields. Soak the bearings in a bearing cleaner or mineral spirits, agitate until the grime lifts, rinse, and dry completely. Add one or two drops of bearing oil per bearing, refit the shields, and reassemble.
What you need
- A skate tool or a socket wrench for the axle nuts
- A small sealed jar or a bearing cleaning kit
- A proper solvent: a commercial bearing cleaner, mineral spirits, or acetone-free electronics cleaner
- A pin or a small flathead for the shields
- Paper towels and compressed air, or patience
- Skate-specific bearing lubricant, or a light machine oil
Never use water as your cleaner. Water flashes rust on bare bearing races almost immediately. Never use gasoline, which is a serious fire hazard and leaves residue.
Work in a ventilated space. Solvent vapor builds up fast in a closed garage, and every solvent on that list is flammable, so keep it away from any flame, heater, or spark.
Popping the shields
The shield is the thin cover on each face of the bearing. Getting it off is what makes the difference between a real clean and a rinse.
Rubber shields usually have a small notch. Slide a pin under the edge and lift, and the whole shield comes out. These go back on easily.
Metal shields are held by a small C-shaped retaining ring. Find the gap in the ring, work a pin under it, and unwind it out of its groove. Metal shields are easy to bend and are the most common casualty of this job.
Many bearings have a shield on one side only. Clean the open side and leave the sealed side alone.
The step-by-step
1. Remove the wheels. Take the axle nuts off and pull each wheel.
2. Pry the bearings out. Rest the wheel on the axle so the bearing sits on the tip, then lever the wheel sideways. The bearing pops off. Do this gently. There are eight bearings and two speed rings per wheel to keep track of.
3. Remove the shields. Lay them out so you know which is which.
4. Soak. Put the bearings in a jar with enough solvent to cover them. Cap it and shake for a minute or two, then let them sit for ten to fifteen minutes.
5. Agitate again. Shake, then look. If the solvent has gone black, pour it off and repeat with clean solvent.
6. Rinse in clean solvent. A second short bath removes the suspended grit that the first bath loosened.
7. Dry completely. This is the step people rush. Set the bearings on a paper towel, spin them, and blow them out with compressed air if you have it. Any solvent or moisture left inside will thin the new oil or start rust. Give them time.
8. Lubricate. One or two drops of bearing oil per bearing, then spin it to spread the oil. More is not better. Excess oil collects dust and slows the bearing back down.
9. Reassemble. Shields back on, bearings back into the wheels with the shielded side facing out, speed rings on the axle, wheels back on. Tighten the nut until the wheel stops spinning, then back it off until it spins freely with just a hint of side play.
Why not just clean the wheels?
Wheels are polyurethane and do not need much. Wipe them with soapy water and dry them.
Cleaning the outside of a wheel does nothing for speed, because the drag lives inside the bearing. The same logic applies to a scooter or a kids bike, which is why how to clean a kids bike and scooter treats bearings as a separate job.
When is a bearing past saving?
When it is visibly rusted, rattles loose, feels notchy after a proper clean and relube, or has a cracked or missing cage. Bearings are consumable and inexpensive, and a full set costs less than most decks. Cleaning buys time; it does not restore a rusted race.
Wet riding, and what to do after
Water is the single fastest way to kill a set of bearings.
If you ride through rain or a puddle, do not just leave the board. Take the bearings out, dry them, and relube them the same day if you can. Trapped water rusts overnight.
Grease-packed bearings hold up better in wet conditions than oil-lubed ones, at the cost of a little speed. That trade is worth it for a board ridden through a rainy Willamette Valley winter.
Do not store a board on a damp garage floor. Off the ground and dry, alongside the rest of the gear covered in our guide to cleaning outdoor gear and equipment.
How often should you do this?
Every two or three months for regular street riding, more often for dusty or wet conditions, and immediately after any water exposure.
The signal is simpler than a schedule. Spin a wheel by hand. If it stops in a couple of seconds or makes a gritty sound, the bearings need attention. A clean, lubed bearing spins freely and quietly.
The same rule of thumb governs a bike drivetrain in how to clean a bike chain and drivetrain: the noise tells you before the calendar does.
Source: ABEC bearing standards documentation and skate industry maintenance guidance
FAQ
Can you clean skateboard bearings with water?
No. Water causes bare bearing races to rust almost immediately, and rust inside a bearing cannot be cleaned out. Use a commercial bearing cleaner, mineral spirits, or a similar solvent, dry the bearings completely, and add fresh bearing oil before reassembling.
What can I use to clean skateboard bearings at home?
Mineral spirits in a sealed jar works well and is widely available, as does a purpose-made bearing cleaner. Avoid gasoline, which is a fire hazard, and avoid water. Whatever you use, work in a ventilated area away from flames, and dry the bearings fully before adding oil.
How do you dry skateboard bearings?
Set them on a paper towel, spin each one, and let air do the work. Compressed air speeds it up considerably. Do not use a heat gun or an oven. The bearings must be completely dry inside before oil goes in, or the residue thins the lubricant and rust can start.
What lubricant should I use on skate bearings?
A skate-specific bearing oil, or a light machine oil, at one or two drops per bearing. Thick greases slow the bearing down but last longer in wet conditions. Avoid general-purpose penetrating spray, which is a solvent and water displacer rather than a lubricant, and washes out real lube.
How often should skateboard bearings be cleaned?
Every two to three months with regular riding, sooner in dusty or wet conditions, and right away after riding through water. The practical test is spinning a wheel by hand. If it stops quickly or sounds gritty, the bearings need cleaning regardless of when you last did them.
Why are my wheels still slow after cleaning the bearings?
Usually one of three things: leftover solvent that was not fully dried out, too much oil collecting dust, or axle nuts tightened so far that they bind the bearing. Also check for a bent axle or damaged speed rings. If a bearing feels notchy after a clean, it is worn out.
Skate gear brings the street indoors. If keeping the rest of the house up is the harder job, get a quote or read more about house cleaning services.