TL;DR
Clear packed mud from the studs before you leave the field, then let the rest dry and brush it off at home rather than scrubbing wet mud into the upper. Air dry the cleats loosely laced with paper stuffed inside, and keep them away from heaters, which delaminate soleplates and shrink leather.
Why Does Mud Need to Come Off Right Away?
Mud packed between the studs adds weight, kills traction, and dries into a hard cake that is far harder to remove later. Two minutes at the field saves fifteen at home.
Mud left on the upper also holds moisture against the material and the stitching. On leather cleats that means the leather dries out unevenly; on synthetic cleats it means the bonded seams stay damp.
The soleplate is the expensive part. Grit trapped between the soleplate and the upper works at that bond every time the foot flexes, and a separated soleplate usually ends the life of the cleat.
What to Do at the Field
Knock the cleats together sole to sole a few times. Most of the packed mud drops out in seconds.
Use a blunt stick, a plastic scraper, or the edge of the other cleat to clear whatever is still wedged between the studs. Do not use a screwdriver or a knife, which gouge the plate and can damage removable stud threads.
If the cleats have screw-in studs, check that none loosened during play, and clear the threads before mud dries in them. A stud that seizes into a dried thread often has to be drilled out.
Loosen the laces and open the shoe before it goes in the bag. A cleat crammed into a sealed bag stays wet all night, and it is the leading cause of the smell every soccer parent knows. Our guide to a gym bag that smells covers that side of it.
How Do You Clean Cleats at Home?
Let any remaining mud dry completely, then brush it off with a stiff brush over a trash can. Wipe the uppers with a cloth dampened in cool water and a drop of mild soap, rinse the cloth as you go, and dry the shoe with airflow rather than heat. Do not soak, machine wash, or hose down the cleats.
Dry mud releases in sheets. Wet mud smears into the material and into the stitching, which is why waiting is the right call.
Work the welt seam where the upper meets the soleplate with the brush. That seam is where grit collects and where separation starts.
Pull the insoles out and let them dry separately. They hold most of the moisture and most of the odor.
Leather Versus Synthetic Cleats
Leather cleats, including kangaroo and calfskin, need conditioning after cleaning because water pulls oils out as it evaporates. Use a leather conditioner made for footwear in thin coats and let it absorb. Skip conditioner and the leather stiffens and cracks at the flex point.
Synthetic cleats do not need conditioning and generally clean up faster. Wipe with mild soap and water and rinse the cloth often. Avoid solvents and degreasers, which can cloud printed graphics and attack bonded seams.
Knit collars and uppers take a soft brush and light soap only. A stiff brush pills the knit permanently.
Never use bleach, oven cleaner, or a strong degreaser on any cleat, and never combine cleaning products. Bleach mixed with ammonia or with an acid such as vinegar releases toxic gas, and none of it belongs on athletic footwear.
Drying Cleats Between Games
Stuff the cleats with crumpled newspaper or paper towels, open the tongue, and set them where air moves. Change the paper once when it feels damp. Expect twelve to twenty-four hours.
No heaters, no radiators, no clothes dryers, no hair dryers, no hot cars. Heat softens the adhesive holding the soleplate to the upper and can warp the plate itself, and it shrinks and cracks leather.
A fan is the safe accelerator. If your player has back-to-back games, a second pair is the real answer, and rotation also gives the foam time to recover.
The same heat rule governs hiking footwear, and the reasoning is identical, which our guide to hiking boots after a wet trail walks through.
Storage and Season-End Care
Store cleats out of the sports bag. A sealed bag in a garage is warm, dark, and damp, which is the worst possible combination for both odor and material life.
At the end of a season, give the cleats a full clean, condition leather uppers, check the studs and threads, and store them somewhere dry and out of direct sunlight.
Check the soleplate bond before the next season starts. A hairline separation at the toe is a warning, and playing on it usually finishes the job mid-game.
Replace cleats when the studs have worn short, the plate has cracked, or the upper has split at a flex point. Worn studs are a slipping hazard on wet grass, which matters more than appearance.
For the wider category of footwear, bags, and gear, see our shoe and bag cleaning guide.
Handling muddy gear at the door rather than in the hallway saves an enormous amount of floor work, which is the same reasoning behind entry-first planning during house cleaning services. Control the soil where it arrives.
FAQ
Can soccer cleats go in the washing machine?
No. Machine agitation and the spin cycle stress the bond between the soleplate and the upper, and detergent strips oils from leather cleats. Brush off dried mud and wipe the uppers with a damp cloth and mild soap instead, then air dry with paper stuffed inside.
Should I clean mud off cleats wet or let it dry?
Clear the packed mud from between the studs while you are still at the field, then let the rest dry. Dry mud brushes off in sheets, while scrubbing wet mud drives fine grit into the upper and the stitching where it keeps causing wear.
How do I dry soccer cleats overnight?
Pull the insoles, loosen the laces, stuff the cleats with crumpled paper, and point a fan at them at room temperature. That usually gets them wearable by morning. Never use a heater or a dryer, since heat separates the soleplate and shrinks leather uppers.
Do leather cleats need conditioner?
Yes. Water carries the leather's natural oils out as it evaporates, so leather cleats stiffen and crack at the flex crease without conditioning. Apply a thin coat of a leather conditioner made for footwear after the cleats are clean and fully dry.
How do I get the smell out of soccer cleats?
Remove the insoles after every game and let both the insoles and the cleats dry fully with airflow, and never store them sealed in a sports bag. Baking soda left inside overnight absorbs residual odor once the shoe is dry. Rotation between two pairs helps most.
When should soccer cleats be replaced?
Replace them when the studs have worn noticeably short, the soleplate has cracked or separated, or the upper has split at a flex point. Worn studs reduce traction on wet grass, which is a safety issue rather than a cosmetic one, so do not stretch a worn pair through a season.
Gear handled at the door keeps mud off every floor inside. If you would rather have the bigger cleaning taken off your list, get a quote and we will walk you through it. Every home is different, so the real number depends on size, condition, and what you want covered.
